Having lived in Jakarta for nearly five years now I had always known of the Thousand Islands, but had never visited them - mainly because like so many attractions in Indonesia you often come away disappointed, thinking ‘ well it would be great if only they had done it right ‘. I did not want to be disappointed by something that should be a potentially fantastic experience.
But recently I had the chance to accompany a group of journalists, travel agents and a few people with dubious cover stories on a special introductory trip to nine islands in two days, organized by the Jakarta Tourism Department as part of the ‘ Enjoy Jakarta ‘ Islands and Marine program. This was my big chance to discover if the Thousand Islands lived up to expectations or not.
Day 1. 8.00am. Ancol Marina. North Jakarta.
Our sleek, air-conditioned, three outboard engined speed boat is ready to race us across the waves to the islands, of which the nearest is only 20 minutes away from the coast. We, however are heading a little further to Rambut ‘Hair’ Island, which is a special conservation area famous for the roosts of many types of sea bird.
However, when we reach the open sea, rather than cutting through the waves like a knife through butter, our water chariot seems to spend more time under the water as the waves pound the side windows like a tempest totally obscuring the sun-drenched view outside. I am surprised not to see fish flattened against the glass like bugs on a car windscreen. Is this a boat or a submarine ? It is an exciting start and hopefully the first of many stories to come.
As the waters calm nearing Rambut Island and the boat pulls alongside the jetty, flocks of sea birds can be seen circling overhead.
After a short walk through the only ‘real’ tropical forest in the islands, along a path badly maintained due to the earth moving excavations of the local monitor lizards, we reach the observation tower.
20 meters up a rusting ladder covered with creepers and vines, you really get a sense of adventure as the sweat pours off you due to the humidity. The view is awesome and worth the climb. A 360-degree panorama of high rise living, bird-style. Herons, egrets and storks swoop in for precarious landings without any air traffic control sending nesting material crashing to the ground. Some of the trees seem to be laden with large brown seed pods which, as you look closer, unfurl like the eggs in the film ‘ Alien ‘ to reveal wings and the almost dog-like faces of the local fruit bat gang. Those guys who roam the ‘open 24 hours ‘ fruit tree supermarkets in the forest canopy. You can easily spend hours watching the family life of birds, just like David Attenborough does in those wonderful BBC nature programs.
From here you realize the complexity of the eco-system in action with everything from the distant coral reefs, mangroves and forests dependent on each other to sustain life. And as one baby bird falls from the safety of the nearby nest, you realize how delicate the balance between life and death is, especially when the guide tells me only to tread on the supporting ( still rusting ) metal supports and not on the creaky wood floor of the tower because I, too, could follow the bird to the same fate.
The journey back to the boat is like stepping back in time, passing trees encrusted with layers of yellow fungus under dappled rays of sun light filtered through the canopy above. Your senses become heightened in an environment like this as every sound and movement offers a potential encounter with nature. Seed pods and branches frequently land like bombs due to the activities of the birds above, and other more dangerous liquid bombs can descend as if laser-guided. Anyway according to tradition it’s supposed to be good luck, but make sure you wear a hat to avoid a bad hair day.
One noise is different though- a snapping of branches accompanied by surreal hissing.
Moving into the undergrowth I come face to face with two six-foot-long monitor lizards almost standing vertical in a tussle for supremacy. Their power was obvious as they come crashing to the floor before chasing each other into the impenetrable jungle. It reminds me of ‘ The Lost World ‘ when Ray Harryhausen would put rubber horns on small lizards and film them on miniature sets as if they were dinosaurs. But these are real, living dinosaurs.
Somewhat more subdued is the python curled up in the hollow fork of a tree, fast asleep after a delicious meal of ‘KFE’, or Kentucky Fried Egret. At least 12-feet-long, his brother and sisters are lurking somewhere on the island ready for their meals, but they never attack humans. Supposedly, they are more scared of us than we are of them.
Next stop, Putri Island or Princess Island.
A small resort island offers excellent diving and snorkeling in crystal clear waters before you retire to the traditionally decorated cottages looking out towards the sea and other picturesque islands. Here you don’t need to go to the fish, they come in the form of a series of large tanks around the reception area and restaurant. In fact you can enjoy a delicious sea food lunch while watching the live versions of what you are eating swim by.
Of particular interest is the Undersea Aquarium, consisting of an underwater walkway through an enclosed area of sea with turtles, sharks and coral-dwelling fish, which will delight the young and old alike. And, yes, if you look hard enough, you can find Nemo the clown fish hiding in the soft corals. However, in such a rich maritime environment, you do tend to wonder why there are not more fish on view and more information to help educate those who come to see without getting wet.
But even close to shore and around the jetty you will be surprised at the shoals of beautiful blue, red and zebra striped fish that seem eager to meet you. There is something very relaxing about watching such delicate creatures just going about their daily lives.
After the calm of reef-protected waters our good ship continues further north, resuming its disguise as a submarine in the choppy waters, which is enjoyed by all on board (and better than any ride at Dunia Fantasy!).
But as we reach Pantara and Sepa Islands, and the Puleu Seribu Resort Hotel and Sepa Cottages, respectively, the seas calm, turning azure blue and as clear as the best-filtered, bottled water.
Both islands offer cottage style accommodation with beautiful views of the surrounding islands and plenty of opportunity to experience the marine environment.
Due to their strategic location in the center of the ‘ Pulau Seribu ‘ Marine Park, there is easy access to the wonders of the sea and on Sepa Island I had my first ‘ Hawksbill ‘ turtle experience. Here they collect the eggs and incubate them in special pens until hatching, then after careful nurturing release them to the sea. These ancient creatures seem so helpless when young and need as much help from all of us to conserve the species. I am full of praise for the small team who care so much for these threatened creatures.
More pleasure will come from the turtles tomorrow, but for now a relaxing nights stay at the Matahari Island Resort awaits.
Sitting on a wooden jetty with the cool breeze, gentle lapping waters and refreshingly clean air, make the perfect end to the first day of our tour. Who would have thought that you can come to one of Asia’s largest capital cities and with only a short boat ride away, watch the sun sink into the Java Sea after experiencing so many different ecological and recreational adventures.
